The Ultimate Guide to Buying Wood: Home Improvement Stores vs. Lumber Yards

Are you wondering where to buy the best wood for your next DIY project? In this guide, we break down the differences between home improvement stores and lumber yards, helping you choose the perfect materials for quality, cost, and sustainability.

Updated 1/14/2025

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When it comes to woodworking or DIY projects, choosing the right wood is one of the most important steps. But if you’ve ever wandered through the aisles of a home improvement store or explored a local lumber yard, you know the options can be overwhelming. 

Where should you shop, and how do you select wood that meets your project’s needs? This guide will break down the differences between buying wood at home improvement stores and lumber yards, explain wood grades, and help you make eco-conscious decisions.

Tips for Selecting the Right Wood for Your Project

Matching Wood Type to Project Needs

• Softwoods: Perfect for decorative or lightweight pieces.
• Hardwoods: Durable and ideal for furniture or heavy-use items.

Eco-Conscious Tips

• Choose durable wood to reduce waste.
• Support local mills and suppliers to minimize carbon footprint.
• Don’t overbuy by too much: plan it out and purchase just what you need. Or have a plan to utilize the leftover materials.
  • If you do end up with a lot of leftover wood, build something from it like a massive cutting board or sometimes even larger pieces like a floating nightstand.

Understanding Different Wood Grades

Before diving into where to buy wood, it’s essential to understand wood grades. These grades determine the quality and appearance of the wood and can significantly impact your project’s outcome. However, it’s important to note that furniture wood grades typically apply to plywood rather than solid boards.

What Are Wood Grades?

Wood grading varies depending on its intended use. For construction-grade lumber, the focus is on strength, while furniture-grade lumber emphasizes appearance. Here’s a closer look at the main categories:

Construction Grades 

These grades are primarily used for structural purposes and are common at home improvement stores and can be applied to both solid boards or plywood. They are graded based on their strength and durability.

• Select/Premium/Prime: This grade features minimal knots, blemishes, or other defects. It’s ideal for projects where the wood will be visible. Each store tends to call it a bit different name, but it’s basically anything that’s not common grade.
• Common: This grade has more knots and imperfections, making it a good choice for framing or projects where the wood will not be exposed. Common grades are further divided into categories, such as #1 Common and #2 Common, based on the number and size of defects.

Furniture Grades (aka Face Types)

Found at hardwood suppliers, these grades focus on the wood’s aesthetic qualities and are perfect for fine woodworking and furniture-making. Typically these grades refer to plywood. Sometimes they are referred to as “Face Types”.

• Grade A: This is the top tier of furniture-grade wood, featuring a flawless surface, consistent grain patterns, and uniform coloration. It’s ideal for high-end furniture and cabinetry where the wood will be prominently displayed.
• Grade B: Slightly lower in quality than Grade A, this grade may have minor imperfections like small knots or slight color variations. It’s still suitable for visible furniture projects but at a lower cost.
• Grade C: This grade includes more noticeable defects, such as larger knots, mineral streaks, or grain irregularities. It’s often used for rustic or distressed furniture styles where imperfections add character.
• Grade D: This grade is similar to C grade, but allows some rough cut veneer and a few more repaired/sound knots. Personally, we’ve never seen this available.

Face Type Combinations

Sometimes you will see a number or two letters combined together when labeling plywood grades. This describes the grade level of each side of the plywood. For example, if you find a piece of wood labeled “AB,” then the front side is Grade A quality and the backside it Grade B quality. 

You will also see numbers 1-4 after a letter grade like C2. Like before, it means the front side is Grade C quality, and the backside is a lower quality grade. The smaller numbers like 1 and 2 are better quality than 3 or 4, but all are still below C grade quality.

• 1 Back Type – can have up to 16 tight knots not exceeding ⅜” in diameter and can contain mineral streaks. A 1 back type will not contain any repaired knots.
• 2 Back Type – can have up to 16 tight knots not exceeding ¾” in diameter and can contain mineral streaks. A 2 back type will also contain repaired knots and rough cut veneer.
• 3 & 4 Back Type – these types are usually referred to as “reject backs”. They’re to be used where appearance doesn’t matter and in concealed areas. The 4 back type is actually the most commonly used on ¼” plywood.

Additional Grading Factors

• Moisture Content: Wood is also categorized as green (wet) or kiln-dried (dried to a specific moisture level). Kiln-dried wood is less likely to warp or shrink, making it a better option for precise projects.
• Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods like oak and maple are generally graded differently than softwoods like pine and cedar, reflecting their density, durability, and usage.

Understanding these grades helps ensure you select wood that meets your functional and aesthetic needs while staying within budget.

Rough vs Milled Lumber Labeling on Solid Boards

When buying wood, you’ll encounter terms like “rough,” “S2S,” and “S4S.” These describe how much the wood has been processed by the sawmill and affect how much preparation is needed before you can use it in your project. You’ll see these categories typically on solid boards.

• Rough: Rough lumber is exactly as it sounds—straight from the sawmill without any finishing. It has a coarse texture and requires planing and sanding to achieve a smooth surface. It’s ideal for woodworkers who want to customize the thickness and finish themselves. It’s also usually the most affordable.
• S2S (Surfaced on Two Sides): This wood is planed smooth on the top and bottom surfaces, leaving the edges rough. It’s a good balance between customization and convenience.
• S4S (Surfaced on Four Sides): This wood is planed smooth on all four sides, ready for immediate use in most projects. It’s common at home improvement stores and great for beginners.
• SLR (Straight Line Ripped): This refers to wood that has one edge machine-cut for straightness, making it easier to work with and align in your project. Sometimes you’ll see a 1E after the SLR, which is just referring to the one straight edge.

Choosing the level of finish depends on your tools, skills, and the amount of prep work you’re willing to do. Just know that typically, the more “finished” the wood is the higher the price because it includes the labor it took to plane and/or square the piece.

Understanding Lumber Sizing

One of the most confusing aspects of buying wood is understanding sizing, especially when comparing home improvement stores and lumber yards. The dimensions you see on a label don’t always match the actual size of the wood.

Nominal vs. Actual Dimensions

At home improvement stores, wood is often labeled with nominal dimensions. For example, a “2×4” actually measures 1 ½ inches by 3 ½  inches. This discrepancy exists because the wood is planed down from its original size during the milling process.

Here’s a quick chart to reference for nominal vs actual dimensions.

Hardwood Sizing

At lumber yards and hardwood suppliers, hardwood is often sold in thickness increments referred to as quarters. For instance:

• 4/4 Lumber: Measures approximately 1 inch thick before planing.
• 8/4 Lumber: Measures approximately 2 inches thick before planing.

Here’s a chart to give you an idea of thickness depending on the level of finish.

Furthermore, the width and length of hardwood sold are usually variable. Hardwood is often sold by board foot, a unit of measurement equal to a 12-inch by 12-inch piece of wood that is 1 inch thick (aka the volume of the wood). This measurement ensures you’re paying for the volume of wood rather than the length or width alone.

Buying Wood at Home Improvement Stores

Home improvement stores like Lowe’s or Home Depot are go-to options for many DIYers. Here’s what to expect:

Advantages

• Convenience: Locations are widespread and have extended hours.
• Affordability: Budget-friendly options, especially for softwoods like pine and cedar.
• Accessibility: Ideal for beginners who want smaller quantities or precut pieces.

Disadvantages

• Limited Selection: Options are often limited to construction-grade wood, with some options for select (aka premium) wood in solid boards. Also mainly softwoods are sold with a few options for hardwoods like Oak.
• Lower Quality: Higher likelihood of warped, cracked, or knotty boards.

Pro Tips for Shopping Smart

• Inspect Before Buying: Check for straightness, cracks, and excessive knots.
• Use Store Services: Many stores offer free or low-cost cuts to save time. However, we wouldn’t recommend this unless absolutely necessary as they don’t always cut very well or the exact size you need. You’re better off using a circular saw with a guide or track saw to make any large cuts for plywood.
• Match Wood to Your Project: For furniture, opt for furniture-grade wood. For framing, common-grade suffices.

Buying Wood at Lumber Yards or Hardwood Suppliers

For those seeking higher-quality wood, lumber yards, and hardwood suppliers are excellent options.

Advantages

• Superior Quality: Access to furniture-grade wood, including exotic and specialty species.
• Expert Advice: Knowledgeable staff can guide you on wood types and grades.
• Customization: Options for milling, thickness, and sizing.

Disadvantages

• Higher Costs: Premium wood comes with a premium price tag.
• Bulk Purchases: Some suppliers have minimum order requirements. Always check with them to see if this applies.

Pro Tips for First-Timers

• Call Ahead: Confirm availability of different wood species and pricing before visiting.
• Build Relationships: Regular customers can sometimes get discounts.
• Ask Questions: Don’t hesitate to seek advice as staff are there to help!

Comparing Costs and Sustainability

Cost Breakdown

While home improvement stores offer lower upfront costs, the quality of wood might not meet the demands of all projects. Lumber yards provide better value for high-end projects, as their wood is more durable and visually appealing.

• Home Improvement Stores: Expect to pay around $2-$5 per board foot for softwoods.
• Lumber Yards: Hardwood prices can range upwards from $6+ per board foot, depending on the species and grade. For example, you can find rough walnut for around $12-$15 per board foot. The specialty or exotic wood species can be quite a bit more per board foot, depending on their level of finish.

Sustainability Considerations

Eco-conscious DIYers can make informed choices by looking for certifications like FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC (Program for the Endorsement of Forest Certification). Hardwood suppliers often have a broader selection of sustainably sourced wood.

Reclaimed wood is another sustainable option. It’s not only eco-friendly but also adds unique character to your projects.

More DIY Projects

Selecting the right wood for your DIY project doesn’t have to be daunting. Whether you’re shopping at a home improvement store for convenience or visiting a lumber yard for premium quality, understanding wood grades and your project’s needs is key. And by incorporating sustainable practices, you’re not just building something beautiful, you’re also making a positive impact on the environment.

Check out more of our DIY projects articles for inspiration!

• Hubby How To – DIY Modern Headboard With Floating Nightstands
• Hubby How To: DIY Hanging Daybed Swing Plans
• How To Read Engineering Drawings & General Project Workflow For DIY Plans
• How To Make A DIY Crosscut Sled For A Table Saw
• Hubby How To – Modern DIY Platform Bed Frame

How To Make A DIY Crosscut Sled For A Table Saw

Hubby How To – DIY Floating Nightstand with Hidden Drawer

Non-Toxic Wood Finishes: Is Rubio Monocoat Better Than Traditional Options?

Have tips or experiences buying wood? Share them in the comments below or tag us in your projects on Instagram. We’d love to see what you create!

Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links, and I will earn a commission if you purchase through these links. Please note that I’ve linked to these products purely because I recommend them and they are from companies I trust. There is no additional cost to you.