Hubby How To: Hanging Daybed Swing Plans

Need a place to lounge and create an oasis outdoors!? Well, we built a hanging daybed swing and created plans to share with anyone who wants a beautiful hanging daybed swing for their oasis! This post covers the tools, materials, and how-to for your own hanging daybed swing plans.

Updated 02/23/2023

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Many of us are spending more time at home. Which means many of us are trying to create an oasis at home. In this post we are going to show you how to build a simple clean line hanging daybed swing. Outdoor hanging daybeds are the best for several reasons. Firstly, the wow-factor of the daybed with clean lines and a little Japanese joinery flare. Secondly, they are the best for taking naps, reading books, or just overall relaxing. We especially love to spend time looking out at the trees and our little guy loves to use the frame as a balance beam!

This Hubby How To shows the rotated queen sized daybed swing plans . If you’re going to build this hanging daybed, I recommend you grab our printable drawing plans to make building this much easier! You can also get the daybed swing plans for the following sizes: twin, full, queen, and king. All the sizes to fit your space and needs! Check out our Shop or our Etsy Shop, if you prefer, to get the plans.

For this design, we wanted a very clean line platform with a little Japanese feel to how the edges joined. Also, we wanted the option to move the headboard around and face different directions or even remove the headboard all together. We were able to build this swinging bed for around $200 (not including the futon/pillows). Obviously, the price will vary based on what wood you choose, stain, and where you get your wood (and then purchasing a futon/mattress).

But now let’s get into the How To!

Tools You Will Need

• Tape Measure
• Drill
• Drill Bits
• Spade Bits
• Speed Square
• Sliding Miter Saw
• Table Saw (Or Router Table with a 1/4 Straight Bit, if you prefer)
• Oscillating Multitool OR Jigsaw OR Chisels
  
  Optional Tools:
• Band Saw
• Belt Sander
• Handheld Belt Sander

Daybed Swing Plans Materials

• (2) – 1x2x8 Board
• (1) – 1X2X6 Board
• (16) – 1x4x6 Board
• (2) – 2x4x6 Board
• (1) – 2x6x6 Board
• (1) – 2x6x8 Board
• (4) – 4x6x8 Board
• (1) – 1/4″x2x4 Plywood
• (1) – 1″ Diameter x 4′ Dowel
• ¾” Cotton Rope
• 2 ½” Screws (Exterior Rated)
• (4) 1/2″ Eye Bolts
• Preferred Stain + Rags or Sock and Gloves for Staining
• Rafters or Trellis to hang and connect bed from

Bedding

• Futon
• Foam Pad

You will also need a method of hanging the bed. For our bed, we chose to go with ¾” Cotton Rope doubled up around each corner to hang it from the rafters. You could choose to use a thicker rope and drill a hole through the center of 4×6’s. Or have a chain connected to eye bolts at each corner, or even cable if you have the tools for it. There are plenty of different methods available. Just make sure that you are considering the weight that will be on these ropes.

To connect it to the rafters, we chose to use ½” Eye Bolts. We’ll discuss the actual hanging process and load analysis in more detail later on so be sure to keep reading for more details!

Hanging Daybed Swing Plans – Build Process

First and foremost, you’re going to need a drawing packet. To get the drawing packet for the Queen Sized Daybed Swing Plans we are building today you can grab it from our Shop or our Etsy Shop, if you prefer.

Next up, we are going to want to buy our materials. If you plan to put this hanging daybed swing somewhere exposed to the elements, it may be worth considering pressure treated wood. Just know that pressure treated wood will be significantly heavier and you can’t stain it for 6-12 months or it will rot prematurely. You have to wait for it to dry out naturally first. Assuming your daybed will be under an awning or indoors, you can go with much lighter wood and stain it to protect it from humidity and the like.

We purchased the 4×6 boards from Menards online and had them shipped to our local store. They were the only source that had them in stock due to the lumbar shortage this year. That said, I am not a fan of the process of buying lumber from Menards, so we bought the rest of our boards from Home Depot. Make sure you check every board for splits and knots. And look down the length of them to make sure they are straight. A certain amount of bowing is practically unavoidable, but the straighter you can start off the better. 

Be sure to review your drawing set for the daybed swing plans so that you are familiar with how much of each board you will use. If a board is good except for a split or knot at the end, you could still get that board and just make sure that you cut the bad end off.

I also recommend buying nicer, sanded plywood since the plywood will be in a visible location. Try to select wood that is similar in color. Even with a dark stain, this difference can be quite obvious if you mix Pine with Oak or something like that. For most stained projects, I tend to stick to cheaper white woods. For projects where I want to show off the beauty of the wood with a clear coat or oil finish, I go with nicer quality wood like Cedar or Oak. Think about how you want your end product to look and plan accordingly.

Alright! Now that we have our drawings and wood, it is time to get started!

Step 1: Make Daybed Swing Frame Cuts

To begin, lay out your boards and associate them with their corresponding drawings. If there are any defects in the boards, mark them now and orient the boards so that the defects are facing up so you don’t forget about them later. Go through with your speed square and measuring tape and mark your cut lines so that you are removing as many defects in the boards as possible.

We’re going to start with the hardest ones first. The 4×6 boards. To begin with, cut the two short boards to length on your miter saw. If you have a sliding miter saw with a large enough blade, you should be able to slice through the 3.5” of this board in a single cut. If not, flip the board over and very carefully align your cut to make it through the rest of the board.

Now we are going to cut the angles on the bottoms of each of these boards. This angle is purely aesthetic, so it doesn’t have to be extremely precise. The only important part is to make sure that it is not too steep or it will get too close to the ropes we are wrapping around the corner and allow them to slip off. If you stay close to the dimensions in our daybed swing plans you will be okay.

Now is where things get more complicated. We are going to cut notches in the boards to join them together. For this step, I recommend using an oscillating multi-tool in order to cut each notch. The plunge-cutting blades are perfect for this. 

If you don’t have an oscillating multi-tool, your next best option would be a jig saw. You can cut down each side and then sweep a wide corner to get to the back face. From there, you can turn around and complete the cut on the back face like we show below.

If you don’t have either of these tools, then you can go back to traditional methods and use chisels and a hammer to cut out the notches. This is definitely more time consuming and didn’t produce quite as nice of a cut when I was done. (I probably need to sharpen my chisels!) That said, it definitely left me with a sense of confidence when I was done. Be sure to practice on a piece of scrap wood first if you aren’t used to using chisels. 

Be sure to trace your pattern all the way around the part using your speed square. You will have to cut from both sides and you want them to be aligned when you’re done. In the event that they are off, use a hammer to knock the piece of wood out and then clean up the inside surface of the cuts so that no material extends further into the cavity than the edges of your cut. By this, I mean make sure that nothing would stick out far enough to hit the 4×6 board you are going to fit into this notch. You can use a scrap piece of 4×6 and test fit it into the notch. If it binds, identify where it binds and then remove some more material there. You want a snug fit here.

Repeat this process to cut out all of the notches in the 4×6 boards. There is also a relief in the bottom of the boards for the 2×6 to fit into. This will hide the 2×6 from sticking out under the board while giving us good surface to surface contact for the 2×6 in order to screw it to the 4×6. The oscillating multi tool or chisels will be your best bet for this notch though it could potentially be done with the jigsaw if you put another piece of wood under it in order to achieve a specific depth. This would also be a good application for a plunge router if you have one.

Finally, we are going to drill the holes in the 4×6 board(s) for the dowel rod of the headboards to fit into. If you want the headboard to be reversible, you will be drilling holes in both boards and you’ll want to upsize the holes to be 1 ⅛” so that there is extra play to account for misalignment between the two sides. If you only want the headboard to be set in place, then you can just drill 1” holes in one of the two boards. What is most important here, is that you try to make the hole as straight and perpendicular as possible. If you have a drill press, this is the time to use it. If you don’t then use your speed square to ensure alignment. 

HUBBY TIP: Start with drilling a smaller pilot hole to set your path and make sure your bit doesn’t walk away from your mark. When drilling the larger hole, use a piece of tape on your bit as a depth gauge so you know how deep it needs to go. 

Once you have completed all of these notches, give yourself a pat on the back. The hardest part is now over. Before we sand and stain these boards, take a moment to test fit them all together. If you need to remove any additional material from those notches, now is the time to do it. 

Step 2: Create Headboard Supports

We are going to tackle the most complicated piece, the support for the headboards. This piece has some slightly complicated geometry associated with it. To make this easier for you, I have provided you with a page from our daybed swing plans packet you can print out and place on your piece of wood to use as a pattern. Just be sure to make sure it is square.

Once you have the pattern traced out on each of these parts, cut them out as accurately as you can. I personally used a bandsaw to cut these out, though you could do it with your jig saw, oscillating multi tool, or even a hand saw if you had to. What’s going to be important is the location of the hole for the dowel rod in relation to the corner of the 4×6 and the angle of this surface. If your angle is slightly off on one, it isn’t the end of the world, but it will cause your headboard to be a little crooked. If your hole is too far away, you’ll have a gap, but if it is too close you’ll hit your 4×6 and won’t be able to get it to fit. Measure three times and cut once.

Once you’ve got the pieces cut out, give them a good sanding and then prepare to drill the hole. To do this, clamp the piece down to your work surface and mark your hole location in relation to the corner we mentioned earlier. Start with drilling your pilot hole. Use your speed square to ensure that you are drilling perpendicular to the surface. 

HUBBY TIP: It is helpful here to have someone stand to the side of you so that they can judge the vertical orientation while you judge the horizontal orientation. Stop and check this position a few times while drilling to make sure that you don’t walk. If you are off slightly, we can account for this later. But if you are off too far then you may end up breaking through the side of your piece. 

Did you do it? Did you make it through all 4 pieces without ruining one? If so, you did better than I did. If you did break through, don’t sweat it. Just cut a new piece of wood and give it another shot. You should have enough left over in your 2×6 to try again. If you got a little too close and the wood failed slightly, you can repair it with some stainable wood filler after we get those dowel rods in.

Alright. It’s dowel rod time! Cut your dowel rods to length and sand the ends to make them easier to install. Put some glue just inside the entrance to the hole in the head board piece, then insert your dowel rod. Use a rubber mallet if you need to in order to get them fully installed. Once they are all the way in, measure how much is still sticking out and compare it to the plans. Cut them a bit shorter if needed.

Congratulations! The rest is smooth sailing from here!

Step 3: Create the Daybed Swing Headboards

Go through your daybed swing plans and cut all of the remaining boards to length on your miter saw. We will cut the plywood out on the table saw according to our cutting guide, and then we can cut the angle on the decorative pieces out on either the table saw or the miter saw.

Saving the frame boards for last, you will notice that they have a notch down the center. The plywood will slide into this notch to form your head board. My preferred method for making this notch is to cut it out on the table saw. You’ll start by setting your blade height to the desired notch depth. Then adjust your guide rail so that your blade is cutting out one side of your notch. This position will differ depending on the blade thickness and the thickness of your plywood. 

HUBBY TIP: A good way to dial this in is to cut out the very center of a scrap piece first and then slowly adjust your guard out. Run your board through then flip it around and run it through again. This will keep the cut centered as you slowly expand outward. After every series of cuts, test inserting your plywood board. You want it to be snug but able to be assembled and disassembled without a hammer. Once this position is set, you can run all of your real pieces through the saw and then come back and remove any extra material that might be left in the center.

Alternatively, you can run your boards through a router table with a ¼” straight bit. I find this to be a lot slower and I have a harder time making sure everything is centered and straight. 

Now that all of our frame boards are cut, it is time to assemble our headboards. You can use small nails here if you prefer, but I am going to use wood glue. Assemble the pieces and glue all of our contact surfaces. Do not use too much glue as you don’t want it to gush out onto any visible surface. Anywhere the glue touches will not accept stain very well and will be visible in your final project. If you do have glue leak out, mark the location with pencil so that you can come back and sand that area once it is dry. 

Step 4: Sanding & Staining Everything

With those headboards complete, all of your boards and sub assemblies are now ready for sand and stain. Give all visible boards a least a light sanding, and giving ones you intend to touch a more thorough sanding. Smooth those corners a edges and make sure there aren’t any splinters. Sanding all visible boards with a consistent grit will help you get a more consistent stain color as well. The coarser the sanding grit, the darker the color. The finer the grit, the lighter the color. This is because stain tends to get into those sanding grooves and dry there. I generally will rough sand boards that need some extra shaping or smoothing with 60-80 grit and then finish with 180-240. 

For this project, I used 40 grit on the 4×6’s as I was out of 60 grit for my handheld belt sander and they needed quite a bit of clean up. I then finished them with 180 grit. For the main support pieces of the headboard, I sanded them with 80 grit on my belt sander to shape them and then finished them and the rest of the frame boards with 240 grit. The rest of the boards that form the platform will be under the futon. Since they aren’t seen or touched, I didn’t sand them at all to save on time.

HUBBY TIP: This is a lot of sanding, so be sure to do it in a well ventilated area and wear a mask or respirator to protect your lungs from the saw dust. It was too hot outside to open up our garage door, but I opened the window and set a fan to blow out and hooked the shop vac up to my belt sander. Despite that, everything in that shop was covered in a layer of dust by the time I was done. Myself included!

After all that sanding, do your best to clear out the dust before moving on to staining. If your shop is in the garage then open up the garage door and grab your leaf blower to clear most of it out. Then wait for the dust to settle and come back and do it again. If your shop is elsewhere, then wait for the dust to settle before grabbing your shop vac and going to town.

Once most of the dust is gone and what’s left has settled it is time to finish your boards. We chose a dark stain for our bed. We used a dark interior stain because our daybed swing is undercover in a screened-in porch. If your daybed will be exposed to the element, I’d recommend using an exterior stain.

Throw some scrap wood on the floor to raise your pieces up off the ground and then grab a pair of gloves and a rag or a sock and get to work. Remember to rub the stain in and wipe up any excess. You don’t want to leave a thick wet edge on your piece or you will end up with a line later on that will be tacky to the touch and will never really dry. In most cases though, you can come back with a slightly damp cloth to wet the edge and then use a dry cloth to rub it away. 

Beautiful! Now, let’s get this thing put together!

Step 5: Hanging Daybed Frame Assembly

First up, we are going to assemble our 4×6’s upside down. Carefully align the notches and get the boards positioned. Check to make sure you have them laid out square, and then press them together. If you got your notches sized well, then they should go together with slight to moderate force. You may have to break out the rubber mallet to get them fully seated, but don’t get carried away pounding on them. If they are too tight, then the last thing you want to do is force it and accidentally split your board. Instead, find out where it is binding and remove additional material if needed. We can touch up the stain at the end.

HUBBY TIP: Consider assembling this daybed swing where you plan to hang it. I’ve designed the queen size to fit through doors on it’s side, but it is close and it is quite heavy when assembled. 

Once the boards are all pressed together, you are going to put 2-4 screws in each corner. These are on the bottom of the boards so they won’t be seen once it’s flipped over. 

Next, fit the 2×6 Bottom Platform Mount into its corresponding notches and place 3 screws at each end. If you find that the 2×6 is too long you can either cut it shorter or deepen it’s notches. 

Flip the bed over and place one 2×4 Side Platform Mount on each side. Screw these into place with approximately 1 screw every 12 inches or so. These Boards will transfer the weight of the people on the bed to the 4×6 boards so make sure they are secure. 

You’ll notice that by installing the 2×6 long side down and the 2×4’s long side up, we have created a 2” offset between the ends of the platform and the center. This allows us to achieve a slight curve to the platform boards of the bed which makes lounging more comfortable. To do this, place each of the platform boards so one side is on top of a Side Platform Mount and the other side is sticking on top of the 4×6. Adjust their spacing until they are all approximately even or refer to your plans for an exact number.

Once you have them laid out, you are going to go down the line one by one and press down on the center of each platform board. As it curves it will fall into the opening to now be resting on both Side Platform Mounts. Press until the board touches the Bottom Platform Mount and then screw it in place with a short screw in the middle and a longer screw on each end. Repeat this for the remaining Platform Boards.

Step 6: Hanging Daybed Headboard Installation

Directions to install the headboard will vary depending on if you decided to make it reversible or not. If you are not making it reversible, simply install the headboard support dowels into their holes, position the two headboards so they form a straight line and then run two screws from the back side of each support into the headboard. If you want to be able to remove the headboard, then you can hide the lower screw as we did below. Plan to glue the headboard supports dowels into the 4×6, then I would consider making the lower screw a pocket screw so that the headboard could be separated later in case it ever needs repaired or replaced. 

To make the headboard reversible, the first thing you are going to want to do is test fit all of your head board supports. Due to potential variation in the location of the hole to the corner of the 4×6’s you may find that one support fits well on one side, but once it is reversed it won’t fit on the other side. Experiment with different combinations of head board supports until you find a good match. If you can’t find a combination that works, then you may need to remove some material from the corner of your head board supports to get them to fit. Don’t worry if there is too much gap in some positions as the futon will cover a lot of that.

Now that you know which Headboard Support goes where, it is time to fit them and attach the headboards. To start with, we want to make sure our dowel rods are centered in their holes. If your dowel hole isn’t perfectly perpendicular in the Headboard Support then installing the Support into the 4×6 might put it at a bit of an angle. This isn’t a big deal so long as the dowel is straight in the hole. If you try to straighten the support too much then you’ll push the dowel crooked and you’ll have a hard time getting it in and out of the 4×6.

To center our dowels, a quick and effective way to do it is to wrap them with strips of newspaper. Keep adding layers until the dowels feel tight and you can hardly wiggle the head board support. Repeat this for the other three supports.

Now position your head boards centered on your supports. Once you have it centered, lightly mark the edge of the head board supports on the headboard so that you can quickly realign it later.  Now adjust the height of the headboard until it is at your desired height and have a helper hold it in place. Double-check that you are still centered by using your marks from earlier and then drive a screw through the top of the head board support and into the headboard. Repeat this for the second headboard

Finally, remove the head board supports from the 4×6. Re-align your supports with the mark you made on the head board. Drill a small pilot hole on the inside corner on the underside of the support. Be careful when angling your drill bit to ensure your screw will go into the frame of the headboard without accidentally breaking out of the side of your support.

Next, measure your screw. You want it to sink most of the way into the headboard while also burying itself into the support. You don’t want its head sticking out and causing interference. To solve this, we are going to use a drill bit as large or larger than the head of your screw to remove enough material to sink the head of the screw. Drill deeper if needed to get the right amount of penetration from your screw. Once your headboards are screwed together, double-check that they still can be installed on both sides of the bed and adjust your positioning if needed.

Step 7: Load Calculation for Daybed Swing Plans

Alright, time to hang the bed! Time for some quick math!
Wait wait wait! Come back! Don’t click away! ….Still with me? Okay, let’s do it.

Before we start, let’s get the disclaimer out of the way. We at Big Living Little Footprint are helping you through these calculations to help give you confidence in your application. That said, we can’t analyze your specific application for you, so if you are in doubt, play it safe and go for extra strength. We assume no liability in the event that anything breaks or anybody gets hurt because of this project.

First, you need to decide how you want to hang your bed. You can wrap or lash the corners with rope, drill a hole down the center and feed a rope through, or connect an eye bolt and use a chain. What’s important is knowing how you want to do it and out of what material. Once you know that, it is time to calculate how much weight you expect to support. 

The daybed swing we just made weighs about 140 lbs. If you made it a different size then adjust your weight appropriately. And if you make it out of hardwood or pressure treated wood then it will weigh more as well. For a rough idea, pressure treated wood weighs a little over 50% more than kiln-dried wood. 

Next, consider the maximum amount of weight you’ll have on the bed.

I weigh 165 lbs and my wife wei- OW!.…My wife weighs an undisclosed sum. Less than 1x me. Don’t worry about it. Our dogs weigh 80 lbs and 65 lbs and we know they’ll want to come up and cuddle. Assuming we’ll have two kids and they’ll weigh an average of 120 lbs before they decide they are too old to cuddle with their parents (that’s the sound of my wife’s heart breaking) that brings us up to a total of around 810-830 lbs. 

Worst case scenario is that we put all the weight on 2 of the 4 corners so that. Most likely, it will always be 3 or more, but we’ll plan for the worst case. That gives us an average of 820 lbs / 2 corners = 410 lbs per corner. 

The way we plan to use the rope, it will be doubled up on each corner so that is only 205 lbs/ length of rope. If you plan to use a single strand then be sure to go with the 410 lbs.

Now, I’d originally bought some ½” nylon rope but that was too shiny so we decided to go with cotton rope instead. 

½” cotton rope supports 150 lbs, ⅝” = 230 lbs, ¾” = 330 lb, and 1” = 588 lbs. 

So if you are going with a single strand, consider 1” or thicker. If you are going with a double strand like we are then I recommend ¾” or thicker. You want the extra strength for the piece of mind.

Next, we need to figure out how much length you need. We are running our rope about 8 feet and doubling it up, at each of the 4 corners. That’s 8*2*4= 64 feet. We know we need extra rope for our wrapping and our decorative knots, so we decided to just buy 100’ of rope to be safe. Do your own measurements based on your location. 

Finally, we need to make sure we are connecting to something that can support all of this weight. In our application we are hanging from 2×6 Rafters using ½” eyebolts. According to Bolt Depot: ½” eyebolts can support 200 lbs of straight pull with a safety factor of 4. That means it will support our 410 lbs with a safety factor of approximately 2. Note that this rating is for a straight pull instead of the perpendicular pull that we will be putting on it. Eye Bolts weren’t designed for this kind of directional loading so it is difficult to find any concrete numbers about load in this scenario. A hoist ring is the more correct solution for this application, but even a full circle, shouldered eye bolt would technically be stronger if you can find one.  

That said, given that we only expect the worst case loading scenario of two corners to happen momentarily, these eyebolts should generally be seeing a 3-4 corner loading which means 205-274 lbs during normal application. We used these same eye bolts on our hammock chairs and they held me plus the dog for a total of 245 lbs without bending. We also know that steel should Yield (bend) before they break. Knowing this, we can load test them and check for any kind of bending. If they hold then they are good to go.

Hubby Tip: When mounting your bed, drill the holes for your eye bolt or position your hoist ring as high up on the rafter as possible. You don’t want to be near the bottom or you risk shearing through the wood itself. 

What is more concerning is the rope and wood rafters since those can snap or shear much more suddenly. We already looked at our rope strength, so now we need to look at our wood strength. This is much harder to calculate, much less give you advice on.

Our rafter span is relatively short and we are putting our load points very close to where it is supported. This means that the load is transferred more directly to the supporting framework. We also chose to stagger our support points so that we don’t have two corners on any one rafter. This also helps to spread out the load. Thanks to these two scenarios, I estimated that we wouldn’t need to reinforce our rafters.

However, if your span is longer, then I would recommend you sister another 2×6 to each rafter for safety. If your rafter’s are taller (2×8’s or 2×10’s) then you may be able to get away with a longer span without sistering your rafters, but that’s a question of how comfortable you are with risk. I will likely go back and reinforce our rafters as our kid(s) grow and add weight to the daybed swing just to be safe. 

Hubby Tip: When in doubt, error on the side of caution. The last thing you want is to have an avoidable accident. Especially when it’s your family at risk.

Step 8: Tying the Ropes & Hanging the Daybed

Now that we have our rings or bolts installed, it’s time to route our rope/chain. Lift the daybed swing up and place blocks, boxes, furniture, etc. under it in order to hold it at the desired height. Run your rope/chain down from the daybed swing to your ring/bolt and adjust to your desired height.

For our daybed swing, we decided to create a loop around two of the posts and ran those two strands up and through the eye bolt where they terminated in a square knot. It originally seemed like the rope could slip free on the bottom, but once there was weight on the rope and they were able to pull taught, it was evident that they weren’t going to slip away. If you find that your rope is threatening to slip, run a nail into the rope on the underside of the bed to hold it in place.

Remove your blocks or furniture and adjust your ropes as needed. They will likely stretch once you put weight on them and chances are that you’ll need to go back and adjust at least one corner if not all of them. Just lift the bed back up and shorten each rope until it’s back to where you wanted it. Now cautiously climb out onto the bed and check all of your connections. Make sure everything still looks sturdy and that you didn’t hear any scary sounds like boards cracking. Then add more weight and check again until you’re confident that it will hold your entire family. 

We purchased this futon for the hanging daybed, but found we needed a little extra cushion. So we added this 1.5″ foam pad underneath and now we can sit on it for hours!

Assuming everything checked out okay, lay out the futon and grab some pillows. It’s time for a well-deserved break. You just built some pretty awesome daybed swing plans! Take a moment to kick back and relax. You earned it!

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Let us know what you think of our hanging daybed swing plans or if you’re going to build one in the comments below!

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